When updating your kitchen it can be difficult to know where to start. Here are MainFaucet.com’s top 7 picks for what’s trending in kitchens.

There are two mounting choices to consider when selecting your kitchen sink: self-rimming sinks and undermount kitchen sinks. Both have their benefits, and the choice is really just a matter of taste and function; you’ll want to determine which one will work best for you.

Overmount/Self-Rimming Sinks

Self-rimming sinks have a finished edge and are installed onto the countertop. These are the easiest sinks to install, and they are easy to replace; however, they can also collect dirt at the seams. There are no restrictions on the counter-top material when you use self-rimming sinks.

Undermount Sinks

Kitchen Sink Materials

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel kitchen sinks are made to last. Stainless kitchen sinks are the most used home kitchen sinks and commercial sinks because they offer quality, durability, a low price and ease of cleaning. Stainless steel kitchen sinks won’t be damaged by hot or cold objects and resist damage caused by impacts.

One disadvantage of a stainless steel kitchen sink is that they tend to be noisier than most other sink materials due to the stainless steel being thin (although better sinks apply a heavy coating of vibration-damping material to the underside of the sink).

Most stainless steel kitchen sinks are made with a die. A sheet of stainless steel is drawn over the die then pressed. (Some very deep sinks are fabricated by welding.) Look for the highest-grade stainless, which is known as Type 302, or 18/8. This grade of steel contains 18-percent chromium and 8-percent nickel for a durable, rust-resistant finish. Also, look at the gauge, or thickness, of the stainless steel kitchen sink. With stainless steel sinks, the heavier the gauge, the better; the lower the gauge number, the thicker the steel. A thicker sink is less likely to dent and it won’t be as noisy as a thinner stainless kitchen sink. Most sinks come in 18 to 20 gauge; sinks in 14 and 16 gauge steel are available on the high end as well as 24 gauge steel on the lower end.

Granite Composite

These are the most durable sinks on the market today. The high density of rock particles at the sink’s surface cause this kitchen sink to be scratch-, chip- and heat-resistant. Hot pans will not mar the surface since these sinks offer heat resistance to 535? F.

Quartz Composite

Quartz composite kitchen sinks are a step below granite composite when it comes to their durability and wear. Quartz composite is usually a combination of 70-percent quartz and 30-percent resin filler. Quartz composite kitchen sinks can resist everyday cuts, scuffs and dents. These sinks can easily stand up to harsh cleaning materials and liquids. Quartz composite sinks are available in a variety of colors, and since the color is uniform throughout, this kitchen sink will never lose its original color. This sink is heat-resistant up to 446? F, and pots and pans can usually go right from stove to sink without damaging the sink. # Soapstone: Soapstone is a popular, high-end sink. Soapstone sinks are created by joining slabs of soapstone with epoxy to form the sink basin. The only drawback seems to be the perfectly flat bottom. Anything on the bottom of the sink, such as crumbs, must be manually swept toward the drain. Soapstone is stylish and ages wonderfully.

Installing an Under-Mount Sink

Installing a kitchen sink is an easy Do-It-Yourself project that can significantly change the overall look of one of the most important rooms in your home.

Time: No more than half a day

Price Range: $250-$500

Difficulty: Easy

Materials:

• glue
• sink
• (Optional) Undermount Sink Installation Tool
• sink mounting clips
• silicone caulk
• strainer assembly

Step 1: Position and Cut the New Sink Opening

Place the sink cut-out template on the countertop, where the sink is to be installed. Trace around the outside perimeter with a pencil. When tracing the sink opening, set it back at least 1-1/2″ from the front edge of the countertop. If the countertop is wider (front to back) than 24″, leave more than 1-1/2″ to retain strength at the front edge, but no more than 3″ to 4″.

After tracing, remove the template. Use a straightedge if necessary to straighten out the traced outline. Use a drill with a 7/8″ spade bit to drill four pilot holes, one in each corner inside the outline. These holes will be your starting points for sawing the hole, so they must be large enough to fit the blade of a jig saw or keyhole saw.

Cut the hole for the sink, using a jig saw to cut along the outline between each hole. Because the rim of the sink will cover the sawed edges, it’s important to follow the line but not crucial for the edges to be perfectly straight. If you don’t have a jigsaw, a keyhole saw will work just as well for both curved and straight cuts.

Step 2: Install the Sink

Instructions:

1. Clean the bottom of the slab where the anchor bolt will go as to be free of any debris whatsoever. Surface must be dry and clean, it should also be rough so that the glue may bond well.
2. Position the sink in its desired location and mark it on the bottom, also mark the locations of all anchors now (as suggested above). Depending on site conditions the amount and position of clips may vary. You can install the anchors either face up or face down, face down is the easiest and fastest.
3. Mix enough glue for all clips, place a dab on the intended location and place the anchor on top of the glue, flatten the excess glue flush with the anchor plate, the plate should have about 1/16” of glue on it. Let dry accordingly.
4. Place a small bead of caulking between the sink and the surface.
5. Install the sink in its desired location. insert clip into anchor, then the washer then the butterfly nut, tighten gently. If the clip does not sit on the sink and surface properly you will need to bend it as shown on 2, so it may tighten.
6. Once you are content with the position of the sink tighten clips as needed.
(Image 1 shows recommended mounting clip placement.) (Image 2: Overmount Sink Fastening Detail.)

FOLLOW ALL LOCAL BUILDING AND SAFETY CODES IN YOUR AREA.
THE ABOVE IS ONLY A SUGGESTED METHOD TO BE PREFORMED AT YOUR
OWN RISK. REFER TO OSHA FOR PROPER SAFETY PRACTICES.

1. Farmhouse/Apron sinks

Farmhouse or Apron sinks are quickly increasing in popularity. As the name implies, a farmhouse sink mimics the style of a vintage rural kitchen sink with a deep, rectangular basin and an exposed front. Farmhouse sinks can be undermounted or be set on top of the counter. The style lacks a deck, so the hardware is generally mounted directly into the counter and can sit behind or to the side of the sink.

2. Solid Stone sinks

Solid stone sinks are prized for their high performance and durability. Resistant to extreme changes between hot and cold. Heat resistant to 536 degrees Fahrenheit. Unaffected by acids and alkalis typically used in the home (household cleaning agents). Less than one-half the weight of cast iron, which makes delivery and installation easy. Hygienic and does not absorb odors or bacteria and non-porous design resists most household stains, including coffee, tea, red wine, etc..

3. Vessel sinks

Also known as basin sinks, vessel sinks were once only used in the bathroom. Today, vessel sinks are becoming more popular for use in the kitchen. Basin sinks sit on top of, or slightly recessed in, the counter. Not only does this style of sink make an eye-catching statement; it also has a very functional side. Because it sits higher up on the counter, you no longer have to bend and hunch over the sink while you wash the dishes.

4. Prep/Entertainment sinks

Prep sinks are used not only for preparing food but also as an extra space for washing dishes, washing hands or even chilling wine. You can get a full-size sink with a prep sink attached; although, many people prefer to have a prep sink installed in the kitchen island.

5. Trough sinks

Trough sinks are large, multi-person sinks for family-style cooking and cleaning up. Trough sinks are large enough to accommodate multiple faucets, allowing for more preparation room or multiple people using it at the same time. These sinks are also great for gardening or craft projects.

Installing a kitchen sink is an easy Do-It-Yourself project that can significantly change the overall look of one of the most important rooms in your home.

Time: No more than half a day

Price Range: $250-$500

Difficulty: Easy

Materials:

• plumber’s putty
• sink
• garbage disposal unit
• sink mounting clips
• silicone caulk
• strainer assembly

Step 1: Position and Cut the New Sink Opening

Place the sink cut-out template on the countertop, where the sink is to be installed. Trace around the outside perimeter with a pencil. When tracing the sink opening, set it back at least 1-1/2″ from the front edge of t

he countertop. If the countertop is wider (front to back) than 24″, leave more than 1-1/2″ to retain strength at the front edge, but no more than 3″ to 4″.

After tracing, remove the template. Use a straightedge if necessary to straighten out the traced outline. Use a drill with a 7/8″ spade bit to drill four pilot holes, one in each corner inside the outline. These holes will be your starting points for sawing the hole, so they must be large enough to fit the blade of a jig saw or keyhole saw.

Cut the hole for the sink, using a jig saw to cut along the outline between each hole. Because the rim of the sink will cover the sawed edges, it’s important to follow the line but not crucial for the edges to be perfectly straight. If you don’t have a jigsaw, a keyhole saw will work just as well for both curved and straight cuts.

Step 2: Prep the New Sink

Before installing the sink, place a bead of plumbers putty along the edge of the drain opening inside the sink and press the strainer body into place. Turn the sink upside down and tighten the strainer locknut with a wrench. While tightening, hold the strainer steady with pliers the keep it from turning. Wipe away any excess plumber’s putty.

Fit the gasket

on the sink drain pipe (tailpiece) and attach it to the strainer bottom with a slip nut. Tighten this nut by hand. For most threaded connections, apply a sealant such as plumbers putty, silicone tape or “pipe dope” to the threads to ensure a watertight connection.

If a garbage disposal will be installed with the sink, attach the unit directly below the drain fitting before installing the tailpiece. In this project, the disposal unit is attached to a second sink bowl. Turn the unit clockwise until it’s securely attached.

Attach the drain pipe assembly that comes with your sink.

Step 3: Install the Sink

Apply a “rope” of plumbers putty around the perimeter of the underside of the sink or plumbing caulk. Flip the sink over and carefully place it, with all of the drains and attachments secured, into the hole. Press down firmly to seat the sink against the countertop.

Use mounting clips to pull the sink down tight to the countertop. These clips hook onto the sink lip from below the countertop. Tighten with a screwdriver.

After the sink is positioned and securely in place, place plumbers putty around the underside of the faucet body or its mounting plate and install it into the sink. (Image 1 shows recommended mounting clip placement.) (Image 2: Overmount Sink Fastening Detail.)

Image 1

Image 2

Attach all plumbing connections to the house drain line and water supply tubing. Apply a bead of silicone caulking around the perimeter of the sink where it meets the counter to seal any gaps. Fill the sink with water and leave it overnight to add weight and help it settle in place. Afterward, re-tighten the sink clips if necessary.

FOLLOW ALL LOCAL BUILDING AND SAFETY CODES IN YOUR AREA.
THE ABOVE IS ONLY A SUGGESTED METHOD TO BE PREFORMED AT YOUR
OWN RISK. REFER TO OSHA FOR PROPER SAFETY PRACTICES.